The principal cultural and economic city of upper Myanmar, former royal capital, the sprawling city with trading centres surrounded by monasteries and pagodas, Mandalay, was the last royal capital. The Mahamuni Pagoda enshrines a large sitting image so covered with gold that its body has turned bulbous. A solemn ritual of washing the face of this image takes place every dawn, with hundreds of silent pilgrims in attendance.

Mandalay still evokes images of a romantic bygone era. The royal palace and its impressive surrounding moat sits at the foot of the imposing Mandalay Hill. Positioned on the banks of the mighty Ayeryarwaddy River, Mandalay lies within easy striking distance of former colonial hill stations, ancient cities and other cultural attractions.

Mandalay Palace within the moat a replica of the original palace, which was destroyed in WWII, shows the Great Audience Hall, the Glass Palace, the chambers of the queens etc. The one original palace pavilion of teak that exists today was saved because it had been moved to be used as a monastery, now called the Shwe Kyaung or Golden Monastery. The floor plan of this pavilion is different from the traditional setup of a proper monastery, a comparison to be made with the Shwe Inbin and the Taing Taya or Hundred Pillars Monasteries.

Next to the Shwe Kyaung is the Atumashi or Incomparable Monastery, built of brick. Other old monasteries that incorporated western and Burmese architecture are the Thaga Wun Kyaung built entirely of teak but in western style as if it were of brick and the Yaw Min Gyi Oke Kyaung a beautiful brick building near Mandalay Hill of Italian design.

Mandalay Hill is a vintage point to see the city and the Ayeyarwaddy River winding around it. The city bustles with life night and day, and the influx of Shan migrants means that excellent Shan food is easily available and enjoyed by all of Mandalay.

An evening stroll across Taungthaman Lake over the 1.2 km long wooden bridge, built with discarded palace lumber, is a wonderful way to end the day.

Mandalay is the centre of crafts and here only are the hundred shuttle silks woven.

Across the river from Mandalay is Sagaing, a green hilly sanctuary with hundreds of monasteries and nunneries hidden away in valleys and thick woods. Mingun with its stupendous Mingun Pagoda, one third completed but still towering over the river, and the quiet village life of Inwa or Ava, once a great royal capital, are sights not be missed. Ava's teak Bargaya Monastery is still a school for young novices as it was 150 years ago but the brick Maha Aung Mye Bonzan donated in 1819 by powerful but common-born and hated queen is virtually deserted.